Bikepacking on Saturna Island

With warm weather and sun in the forecast, we gathered a few friends in late June for a weekend trip to Saturna Island. Saturna is one of the least-visited Southern Gulf Islands, mainly due to the fact that it is not frequented by BC Ferries as often as the other islands in the region. For us, this was a major drawcard! With a permanent population of only 350 residents, the roads are quiet and perfect for cycling. There are no queues at the cafes, you can take a hike with no one else on the trail, and it’s possible to find a stretch of sand all to yourself. A perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of Vancouver!

Getting There

At the time of writing, it was possible to get a ferry from Tsawwassen on the mainland around 7:00 pm on Friday night or 9:00 am on Saturday morning. We opted for the latter. From downtown Vancouver, you can catch the Skytrain and bus to Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal, or if you’re really keen you can even cycle. We drove and parked in the long-term parking, which cost approximately $30 for 48 hours. The great thing about bikepacking the Gulf Islands is that you can leave your car on the mainland and just pay a passenger plus bike fare for the ferry, which makes it a very economical trip. Tickets cost approximately $19 for one person with a bike to Saturna, one-way. If you have a BC Ferries Experience card, the cost of the bike is waived.

Bring some reading material, as it takes a while to get to the island. We changed ferries at Pender Island, then stopped at Mayne Island before reaching our final destination at Lyall Harbour around midday. It’s also a good idea to bring your binoculars for spotting marine life. If you are lucky like we were, you might spot a pod of orcas along the way. I’ve lived in B.C. for six years and have caught many ferries within that time, but had not seen orcas from the boat until this trip. It was definitely a highlight of the weekend for me! 

Biking Route

Disembarking from the ferry, you’ll see the pub right next to the harbour, along with a general store, art gallery and real estate agent.

There are not many roads on Saturna Island, which makes finding your way around very easy.

We headed straight up East Point Road to the cafe and Saturna General Store. This store is well-stocked and you can get all the essentials here, including alcohol. If you plan to camp at Narvaez Bay as we did, it’s a good idea to fill-up water containers at the store, as there are no drinking water sources available at the campground. 

Then it’s a 40 minute journey over rolling hills and both paved and unpaved roads to Narvaez Bay. After setting up camp and dumping most of the gear, we jumped back on our bikes and headed back up Narvaez Bay Road to the General Store. We gathered supplies (read: beer) and started our cycle out to East Point along East Point Road. The route descends from the General Store into a small valley then ascends a large hill on the other side. I’m not ashamed to say I had to get off and push on this hill – it is a steep slog to the top! The good news is that after this hill the road dips then remains at sea level as you hug the coast for 10km to East Point. This road was wonderfully quiet and a joy to cycle; we glided through the trees with glimpses of the bright blue water on our left.

East Point also lies within the Gulf Islands National Park, and is the site of the East Point Lighthouse, which warns ships of the treacherous waters around Boiling Reef, located just offshore. While the original lighthouse, built between 1881 – 1887, no longer stands, the Fog Alarm House remains and has been turned into a visitor information centre. It is a beautiful spot, with the yellow grass and red roof of the building juxtaposed against the brilliant blue of the ocean and sweeping skies. The U.S. Gulf Islands can be seen to the south and Mt. Baker looms in the distance. It is a well-known spot for whale watching from May – November, which is when the Southern Resident orca pods are in the area. We didn’t see any, but did spot a group of seals lounging on a rock island not far off shore.

There is a small stretch of sand near the point called Shell Beach, which is a great spot to soak up the sun and wade in the ocean. There were a few kayakers launching from the shore here, too. 

Where to Stay: Narvaez Bay

Narvaez Bay is part of the Gulf Islands National Park, which means no fires are permitted. They’ve recently opened up this campsite for online reservations, as it is a popular spot for both walk-in and paddle-in visitors. On the weekend we visited (June 23) the Saturday night was fully-booked. There is an overflow campsite a short distance from the main campsite. This looked pretty full also, so I’d recommend getting there early to secure a spot.

What to Do

If you still have time after visiting East Point, there are several other spots to visit on Saturna.

If you’re feeling energetic, Mt. Warburton Pike is a popular hiking trail with great views. However, it is located at the top of a steep hill that is unpaved and tough to cycle. From the Saturna General Store, turn up Harris Road then take a left on Staples Road. From the parking lot, you can hike Brown’s Ridge, which affords excellent views of Boundary Passage and Pender and Saltspring Islands.

For those that want a more leisurely activity, there are plenty of small artisan workshops and stores to visit close to the ferry terminal. Or if you’re seeking more time on the sand, there are beaches at Veruna Bay and Saturna Beach near Thompson Park. We found a beautiful stretch of sand at Echo Point, located close to Narvaez Bay. This beach gets the sun in the morning and is a good spot for reading a book. There is also a small hike out to the point, where you can watch the turbulent currents swirl by with Mt. Baker in the distance. 

Where to Eat

The Lighthouse Pub near the ferry terminal is a great spot to grab a bite while waiting for your ferry. We enjoyed an excellent burger at Saturna General Store, and a chai latte at Wild Thyme Coffee House – which is actually a double-decker bus that has been transformed into a coffee store. You can sit on the upper level of the bus on the original bus seats, and they even have old school board and video games to play!